
Reference 1680 'Red' Submariner | A stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date and bracelet, Circa 1973
Estimate
12,000 - 18,000 USD
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Read more.Lot Details
Description
Dial: black, Mk. IV
Caliber: cal. 1570 automatic, 26 jewels
Movement number: D'428'098
Case: stainless steel, screw down case back
Case number: 3'303'100
Closure: stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet with folding clasp
Size: 40 mm diameter, bracelet circumference is approximately 165 mm
Signed: case, dial and movement
Box: no
Papers: no
The reference 1680 was introduced in the late 1960s and remained in production until 1980, with the Red Submariner standing today as one of the most coveted iterations within the Submariner family.
Produced from approximately 1967 to 1975, early examples of the reference 1680 are distinguished by the “Submariner” designation printed in red on the dial rather than the standard white, a detail that has become emblematic of the model’s appeal among collects ors.
The reference 1680 is historically significant as the first Submariner to feature a date complication, paired with Rolex’s Cyclops magnification lens. The crystal was also modified for this reference, rising approximately 3 mm above the case and bezel, further setting it apart from earlier Submariner models.
Seven distinct dial variants were produced for the Red Submariner 1680. The present example is fitted with a Mark IV dial, representing the earliest Feet First configuration. It is characterized by red lettering printed atop a white ink base, subtly visible under magnification, and by the distinctive open 6s in the depth rating.
The watch’s vintage character is further enhanced by evenly aged luminous material, underscoring the utilitarian aesthetic that defines the Submariner. Remarkably, for a watch now more than half a century old, the overall condition remains notably well preserved.