Patek Philippe

At the beginning of the 1960s, Patek Philippe ceased production of chronographs, while remaining fully committed to the development of complicated watches with self-winding movements. It was not until the mid-1980s that the firm reintroduced the perpetual calendar chronograph with the Reference 3970, the direct descendant of the celebrated Reference 2499 of the 1950s and Reference 1518 of the 1940s.

Caliber CH 27-70 Q

The Reference 2499 was produced in four distinct series, concluding its remarkable production run in 1985, when Patek Philippe exhausted its supply of the classic hand-wound Valjoux 23 VZ. Thereafter, the manufacture secured an exclusive version of the Nouvelle Lemania 27-70 caliber, successor to the Valjoux movement. Originally introduced in 1968, this caliber would later beat at the heart of the Reference 3970.

Nouvelle Lemania, a privately owned family company renowned for its high-quality chronograph movements, willingly modified and adapted its ébauches to meet Patek Philippe’s exacting standards. In Geneva, exclusivity required extensive reworking: nearly all components were revised, while finishing, assembly, regulation, and inspection were performed entirely in-house.

The “Third Series”

Over the course of the Reference 3970’s production, the model evolved through four clearly defined series, each distinguished by subtle variations in dial design, typography, and aesthetics.

The present example belongs to the third series. Watches of this series were delivered with a solid screw-down case back, accompanied by an additional sapphire crystal case back. Leaf hands were replaced with baton hands, and the hour markers became pointed and faceted to harmonize with the revised handset. According to Tortella, 93 pieces have been identified within the distribution of yellow gold cases.

The dial is notably brighter in appearance, and in most third-series examples, the calendar discs feature a sans-serif font, lending a more contemporary character compared to earlier executions.

It is often said that there is no horological complication that Patek Philippe has not mastered with distinction, and the present example stands as compelling evidence of that claim.

Offered in beautiful condition and accompanied by its original presentation box, Certificate, and additional solid case back, this exceptional timepiece represents a perfect opportunity to acquire one of Patek Philippe’s most revered references, a watch that pays tribute not only to innovation, but also to enduring tradition.