JAR

Pair of Sapphire, Tsavorite Garnet and Diamond Earclips 藍寶石配沙弗來石及鑽石耳夾一對

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Auction Closed

November 12, 07:46 PM GMT

Estimate

300,000 - 500,000 CHF

Lot Details

Description

Featuring an oval sapphire framed by pavé-set circular-cut sapphires and an old mine-cut diamond embellished with similarly set tsavorite garnets respectively, accented by pavé-set single-cut diamonds, signed Jar Paris, French maker's and assay marks for gold. Accompanied by a case stamped JAR's Paris.

Please note the estimate for this lot should read CHF 300,000-500,000 ($380,000-630,000), not as stated in the printed catalogue.

Formerly in the Collection of Ann Getty

Magnificent Jewels including Twelve Jewels from the Estate of Ann Getty, Christie's New York, 8 June 2022, lot 70.

JAR: Theme and Variations

‘These three, beauty, art and luxury are inseparable from happiness.’ - Joel Arthur Rosenthal

Joel Arthur Rosenthal (born 1943) is undeniably the most influential jewellery designer of our time. With his infallible taste, eye for beauty and profound understanding of art history, he has created a body of work that has left a lasting imprint on contemporary jewellery design.

Rosenthal, who initially aspired to become a painter, studied art history and philosophy at Harvard. Next, he moved to Paris where he worked as a screenwriter and needle point artist. Though Hermès commissioned a design for needle point slippers from him, he quickly shifted his focus to jewellery design. After briefly working for Cartier and Bulgari, in 1977 he founded his eponymous business ‘JAR’ together with his partner, the Swiss-born Pierre Jeannet. From the start, JAR realised the importance of remaining elusive: his store just off Place Vendôme has no shop windows and can only be entered upon invitation. Furthermore, he only creates jewels for a select handful of clients who fully understand and share his philosophy and quest for beauty. Therefore, it is a rare occurrence when a piece by JAR of this importance comes to auction.

JAR has participated in two highly acclaimed solo exhibitions: the first at Somerset House in London in 2002 and the second at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York in 2013, making him the only living jewellery designer to be bestowed with this honour.

Several themes thread through JAR’s work. First and foremost, his use of coloured gemstones beyond the traditional big four. Secondly his frequent use of pavé- and micro pavé-settings as well as his penchant for oxidized silver on gold backings. These materials and setting styles have had a major impact on contemporary jewellery design, yet find their roots in antique examples. Other themes such as mismatched pairs of earrings, single-cut diamonds and exuberant representations of nature are great style signifiers of JAR as well. All of these elements are reflected in this highly sculptural pair or earclips, allowing us to appreciate what makes them a contemporary masterpiece at the very vanguard of JAR’s illustrious oeuvre.