Cartier
Invisibly-Set Ruby and Diamond Bracelet 卡地亞 | 紅寶石 配 鑽石 手鏈
Auction Closed
December 9, 12:30 AM GMT
Estimate
300,000 - 500,000 USD
Lot Details
Description
Designed as a flexible strap of invisibly-set calibré-cut rubies, bordered by baguette diamonds, the center featuring a row of marquise-shaped diamonds flanked by rows of straight and tapered baguette diamonds, length approximately 7⅛ inches, signed Cartier London, numbered, with French assay marks and workshop mark for Rubel Frères; circa 1930s. With signed fitted box.
Franco Cologni and Eric Nussbaum, Platinum by Cartier - Triumphs of the Jewelers' Art, Milan, 1995, pp. 216 - 217 for a facsimile of the patent for Cartier's invisible setting dated to 18 March 1933 and a sapphire invisibly-set rose brooch by Cartier Paris dated to 1960.
Invisible Setting by Cartier
On 18 March 1933, Cartier registered a French patent for an 'invisible setting' allowing gemstones to be held in place without any discernable trace of the mount. It was noted how this setting style would be particularly interesting for pavé-settings. However, Cartier rarely used the technique which was deemed undesirable as it required precious stones to be grooved under the girdle to hold them in place. As a result, invisibly-set Cartier jewels are exceedingly rare and highly collectible. In December of 1933, Van Cleef & Arpels patented its signature serti mystérieux which is based on the same technical principles and has become one of the firm's trademark designs.
Location courtesy of M. Olivier Baroin, Image #5.
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