Collector’s Item: The Private Collection That Lives at the V&A

Collector’s Item: The Private Collection That Lives at the V&A

One of the largest-ever gifts to the British public, the Gilbert Collection—an assembly of over 1,000 objects, spanning gold boxes to micromosaics—has its own endowment, board of trustees and, this March, newly expanded galleries. Its curator, Alice Minter, guides us through a living collection.

Photography by Henry Leutwyler.
One of the largest-ever gifts to the British public, the Gilbert Collection—an assembly of over 1,000 objects, spanning gold boxes to micromosaics—has its own endowment, board of trustees and, this March, newly expanded galleries. Its curator, Alice Minter, guides us through a living collection.

Photography by Henry Leutwyler.
Pendant and earrings in the shape of ewers, circa 1870, decorated with intricate micromosaics, from the Gilbert Collection, V&A Museum, London. Photo: Henry Leutwyler for Replica Shoes ’s Magazine.

A rthur and Rosalinde Gilbert were remarkable partners in every sense, in life and in collecting. Both were born in London to Jewish families that had emigrated from Eastern Europe in the 1890s—Rosalinde’s parents were tailors, while Arthur’s father ran a thriving fur business. The couple met at a ball held at Madame Tussauds and married in December 1934. The following year, they combined their talents to establish Rosalinde Gilbert Ltd, a womenswear label producing ready-to-wear clothing in London. Even during fabric rationing, their designs were elegant, revealing a keen eye for style and quality.

In 1949, they relocated to Los Angeles, selling their fashion business and allowing Arthur to establish himself as a highly successful property developer. The profits from his ventures enabled them, by the late 1960s, to begin collecting in earnest. They lived with their collections, using them in daily life and hosting frequently. Their life-size sterling silver swan by Asprey, for instance, would sit on a table in the drawing room, ready to be filled with flowers and moved to the dining room when entertaining. Objects were chosen to be handled, admired and enjoyed, not placed out of reach.

Cutlery used by Arthur during his school days, engraved with his birth name, Abraham Bernstein. Though friends and family called him Arthur from childhood, he later adopted Rosalinde’s surname after they established their fashion business.

Arthur and Rosalinde developed a particular interest in pieces that demonstrated extraordinary craftsmanship, expanding their collecting across five principal areas: silverware, gold boxes, enamel portrait miniatures, micromosaics and stone mosaics (pietre dure). The collection’s journey to the Victoria and Albert Museum was a winding one. Items from the collection were first loaned to the Los Angeles Museum of Art in the late 1970s, but in time, Arthur sought more space. In the 1990s, the late Lord Jacob Rothschild was chairman of Somerset House, then an empty shell on the Strand in London, which he was seeking to transform. After Rosalinde’s death in 1995, Arthur donated the bulk of the collection to the British nation the following year. It was first displayed in a suite of galleries at Somerset House from 2000, before finding its long-term home at the V&A, the world’s largest museum of decorative arts and design, in 2008.

HALLMARKED WITH HISTORY
An early 17th-century mother-of-pearl and silver-gilt cup in the shape of a partridge that inspired Arthur Gilbert’s armorial when he was knighted in 2001.

Today, the Gilbert Collection’s position at the V&A remains unique. With a dedicated board of trustees and accompanying endowment, it is a living collection, thanks to a crucial clause in the gift requiring continued acquisition. Rather than merely expanding the existing holdings, we select acquisitions that will animate them and build connections. In 2023, for example, we acquired from Replica Shoes ’s a table by Giacomo Raffaelli—the father of micromosaics. The table has a specimen stone top, composed entirely of different stones, a material central to the Gilberts’ taste. These additions help build bridges between the different crafts represented.

REGAL NATURE
From left: A life-size sterling silver swan designed by Neil Bulpitt, modeled and chased by William Comyns & Sons for Asprey & Co., completed in 1985. A pietre dure parure—tiara, necklace, comb and earrings, all with shell designs—believed to have belonged to Caroline Murat, queen of Naples.

The new, expanded galleries, opening to the public on March 14, allow the collection to be experienced more fully than ever before. Visitors can see not only extraordinary craft, but also the care, taste and generosity that shaped it. We have made particular efforts to highlight Rosalinde’s role, showing how she influenced acquisitions alongside Arthur. One story captures their partnership perfectly: Arthur often bought items from the antique dealer S. J. Phillips, founded in 1869. Jonathan Norton, a great-grandson of the founder, told me that he had twice offered Arthur a gold box once owned by Frederick II of Prussia, to no avail. On the third occasion, Rosalinde insisted, “If you don’t buy it, I will.”

BOXED BRILLIANCE
A selection of the Gilberts’ roughly 220 gold, enameled and jewel-decorated boxes, the most extensive and comprehensive collection ever formed in the U.K. Below, top left, is the box previously owned by Frederick Il of Prussia, which Rosalinde pushed her husband to acquire.

A LIVING MOSAIC
A fragment from the border of the 2nd-century “The Doves of Pliny” mosaic, discovered near Hadrian’s Villa in Tivoli in 1737. Though not part of the Gilbert Collection, it will be displayed in the new galleries to provide context for the discussion of materials.
Decio Podio’s “The Tigress,” circa 1880-1910—nicknamed the Tiger Lisa by Rosalinde Gilbert—on the V&A’s Ceramic Staircase.

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