Stormzy on stage at Glastonbury Festival, 2019. Courtesy: instagrams
Who knew moving into gents tailoring could be this much fun? A vest that’s capable of stopping bullets up to .45 calibre. And yet it’s not machine washable.
The artist quoted in: @Banksy, instagrams , 24 July 2019, (online)

A poignant and provocative work, Banksy’s Vest from 2019 fuses patriotism with the realities of violence sweeping a nation, rendering it an unforgettable reflection on the fractured state of British identity. One of only five in existence, Vest belongs to Banksy's Gross Domestic Product homewares line, which was first displayed in a shopfront in Croydon in South London in 2019, to comment on the impending commercialisation of the Banksy brand. Addressing the stark realities of the United Kingdom’s surge in knife crime, the present work is a striking reinterpretation of the traditional John Bull gentleman’s waistcoat – an item long associated with British society, from the working class to the elite. Vest is a piece of armour incorporating a genuine, former police-issue bullet proof vest capable of stopping rounds from a gun. An object associated with law and order, or worn from fear and paranoia, Vest is adorned with a black, white, and blue Union Jack, however, the iconographic sombre tones are disrupted by a rusty red hue suggestive of dried blood. This subtle yet powerful insinuation of threat to life evokes a sense of mourning, marking Vest as a chilling emblem of Britain’s present moment.

Ever the anti-establishment artist, Banksy chose one of the biggest platforms in music to disseminate his message: Glastonbury Festival. During his historic 2019 Pyramid Stage headline performance, British grime musician, singer-songwriter, and multi-award-winning artist Stormzy donned one of Banksy’s Vests, injecting a potent layer of visual tension into his electrifying set. Like Banksy, Stormzy used his platform to highlight systemic injustices, particularly the targeting of young Black men by a biased judicial system, as well as endemic surges in knife crime and widespread political unrest. His performance was visually punctuated by the stark imagery of the words "knife crime" projected behind him, alongside an excerpt from a speech by MP David Lammy, emphasising the pressing issues plaguing the nation. In Stormzy’s hands, Banksy’s Vest transcended its utilitarian function, becoming a charged stat.mes nt criticising the fractured state of Britain. Amid the spectacle of his performance, Vest encapsulated the tension between strength and vulnerability, hope and despair, standing as a banner of a divided nation, where national identity is both celebrated and contested. A test.mes nt to its gravitas as a piece of cultural history, Stormzy’s vest is today housed in and displayed at the London Design Museum.

The stab-proof vest worn by Stormzy at Glastonbury in 2019 which was designed by street artist Banksy is on display at the new Cut & Run exhibition at Glasgow's GoMA. Image: © Alamy 2024 Alamy Stock Photo Alamy Stock Photo
It felt like it was bestowed upon me...he found me and said you are going to wear this vest.
Stormzy quoted in: The Graham Norton Show, BBC, October 2022

Here lies the central paradox of Banksy’s work: it operates both inside and outside of the establishment, it skirts the boundary between good and bad taste, and courts mass appeal whilst commenting on potentially marginalising political and cultural issues. Utilising a mainstream framework, such as Glastonbury, that employs an ironic critical distance, Banksy is able to effectively approach a complicated and multifaceted discussion that prompts us to rethink our assumptions and, perhaps, even resist them. To quote James Brassett who focuses on the work of Banksy in his analysis of ‘British Irony and Global Justice’: “Central to Banksy’s work is an attempt to re-frame global issues through the use of irony, and ironic inversion. His work interrupts mainstream narratives of global ethics, of an unfair world that needs reform, by juxtaposing familiar icons of western capitalism (for example Disney, Ronald McDonald) with icons of western imperialism (for example bombed villagers in Vietnam)… Banksy may not provide ready solutions to some of the problems he identifies, but he certainly provides credible pointers as to the kinds of power structures and hypocrisy that global ethical agendas must contend with” (James Brassett, “British Irony, Global Justice: A Pragmatic Reading of Chris Brown, Banksy and Ricky Gervais,” Review of International Studies, Vol. 35, No. 1, January 2009, pp. 232-33).

誰能想到進軍男裝界竟然會這麼有趣?一件能抵擋0.45口徑子彈的背心,只可惜它不能機洗。
引自藝術家@Banksy,instagrams ,2019年7月24日(來源網絡)

班克斯的《防彈背心》創作於2019年,在指責席捲全國的暴力衝突中交織著愛國情懷,深刻映照大眾對英國人身分認同的分裂狀態,別具挑釁意味。《防彈背心》是出自班克斯「噁心家品店」系列的作品,連同本作存世僅得五件,2019年班克斯在倫敦南部克洛敦一個店面展出「噁心家品店」系列作品,藉此批評有人準備竊取他的商標合法銷售冒認為他品牌的商品。本作針對英國持刀犯罪案件激增的嚴峻狀況,重新詮釋傳統的約翰牛西服背心,這種服飾一直與英國社會息息相關,在勞動人口以至上流精英的各個階層均見其蹤影。本作是真正護身的鎧甲,班克斯所用的是以前警察獲配發的防彈背心,能夠阻擋槍械子彈。這是代表治安法紀的物品,或者是人類因恐懼和偏執而穿著的護具,表面飾有黑、白、藍的聯合旗圖案,然而,原本色彩沉鬱的背心卻抹上暗示為乾涸血跡的鏽紅色。這種影射生命受威脅的表現含蓄而強烈,喚發一種哀悼的愁緒,讓本作成為代表當下英國局勢的象徵,令人不寒而慄。

班克斯身為反建制的藝術家,選擇了樂壇上最宏闊的平台之一格拉斯頓柏立音樂節(Glastonbury Festival)宣揚自己的訊息。2019年,英國塵垢音樂人、創作歌手兼屢獲創作殊榮的藝術家Stormzy登上音樂節的金字塔主舞台演唱,當時他身穿班克斯設計的其中一件背心上台,為表演注入強烈的視覺張力,震撼全場。Stormzy與班克斯一樣,利用舞台突顯體制中的不公,特別是司法體系經常過度針對年輕黑人男性,地方上持刀犯案訊激增,以及多地政治持續動盪不安的問題。他表演期間,台上後方所投影的大字「持刀犯罪」(knife crime)衝擊觀眾視覺,並配上節錄自國會議員林德偉(David Lammy)演講的內容,向觀眾強調種種困擾著英國的迫切議題。班克斯創作的背心落入Stormzy手上,反而超越了原有的實用功能,成為批判英國走向分裂的激烈宣言。在這場撼動人心的表演上,這件背心概括了有力與脆弱、希望與絕望之間的張力,高舉成在分裂國度中的一面鮮明旗幟,那一刻民族認同既得到一部分人頌揚,又同時遭另一部分人質疑。Stormzy曾經穿著的背心如今已經入藏倫敦設計博物館,不時公開展出,足證其作為文化歷史珍品的重要地位。

「我感覺這是上天賜予我的⋯⋯他找到了我,然後說你要穿上這件背心。」
引述Stormzy,《葛雷漢・諾頓秀》,英國廣播公司,2022年10月

班克斯的作品正是帶著這種重要矛盾:它既在體制內運作,又置身於體制之外;它遊走於好品味與壞品味之間的邊界,在致力吸引大眾的興趣同時,又批判各種可能已邊緣化的政治和文化議題。班克斯透過格拉斯頓柏立音樂節等主流架構,讓自己保持甚具諷刺意味的批判距離,從而切入複雜的多面向討論,促使大家重新思考一些既有認知,甚或抗拒它們。正如專門研究班克斯的學者詹姆斯・布拉塞特(James Brassett)在〈英式反諷與全球正義〉(British Irony and Global Justice)一文所言:「班克斯創作的核心在於嘗試透過反諷和諷刺倒置,重新構建全球各地議題的框架。他的作品將為人熟知的西方資本主義圖騰(例如迪士尼、麥當勞叔叔)與西方帝國主義的象徵(例如遭轟炸的越南村民)並置,打斷了主流所論述的全球倫理,以及宣稱世道不公亟待改革的論調。班克斯或許不能即時為所揭示的問題提供解決良策,但肯定就討論全球倫理時必須對抗的權力架構和虛偽帶來可信的指引。」(詹姆斯・布拉塞特,〈英式反諷與全球正義:對克里斯・布朗、班克斯與瑞奇・賈維斯的實際解讀〉,《國際研究評論》,第35期第1號,2009年1月,頁232–33。)